CHINESE ELM - ULMUS PARVIFOLIA

CHINESE ELM – ULMUS PARVIFOLIA

 

Common Name: Chinese Elm

General Information:

Chinese elm is fast growing, deciduous or evergreen depending on its location forms a graceful upright rounded canopy with shiny, dark green leathery leaves. Elm is moderately salt tolerant. Several dwarf varieties, sports of Ulmus parvifolia, exist which grow slower than the ordinary Chinese elm but it produces a much finer network of twigs and branches. It is these sports which are used for bonsai.

CHINESE ELM - ULMUS PARVIFOLIA
CHINESE ELM – ULMUS PARVIFOLIA

Family: Ulmaceae.

Lighting: Will grow in full sun or partial shade.

Temperature: Zones 5B – 10A. More restricted zones may apply to some of the dwarf varieties.

Watering: Loves frequent watering, but avoid letting pot water log. Do not let the plant dry out. During extremely hot weather – water regularly. In spring and early summer when the plant supports lots of new growth water frequently and keep the soil moist.

Fertilizing: To retain and produce small leaves, do not feed high nitrogen fast-acting fertilizers. Feeding three times a year is sufficient to maintain good colour and healthy growth without enlarging the size of the leaves.

Position: The Chinese Elm can be grown Outdoor or Indoor Tree. If grown outdoors, it should be grown in full sun. During the hottest months of peak summer, need some protection from scorching heat, move into a semi-shaded area. Also, during the coldest months of winter best to protect from severe frost, move into the cool greenhouse or cover with fleece.

CHINESE ELM - ULMUS PARVIFOLIA
CHINESE ELM – ULMUS PARVIFOLIA

Pruning and wiring: Most shaping can be done by pruning. The bark is thin and may be damaged easily.

Propagation: Because these dwarf varieties are sports of another plant, they can only be propagated by cutting or layering. Cuttings may be made from new tip growth taken in early summer.

Repotting:

They transplant well. Any type of soil with good drainage seems to grow them well. They have heavy root growth so must have root room.

 

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Hinoki cypress bonsai

Guide for Hinoki cypress bonsai

 

 

Plant taxonomy classifies Hinoki cypress as Chamaecyparis obtusa. ‘Gracilis’ is the name of the cultivar with which I deal here, the common name for which is “Slender Hinoki cypress.” The Slender cultivar is not a full dwarf Hinoki cypress, but is compact enough for most landscaping needs. Hinokis are actually a type of false cypress, as indicated by their genus name, Chamaecyparis.

the elegant Dwarf Hinoki Cypress, or Chamaecyparis obtuse grows into a distinctive, handsome tree.  With distinct care needs, this bonsai is rather particular and will usually not thrive unless its caregiver is vigilant, which is not meant to deter the beginning bonsai enthusiast, rather, it is meant as encouragement for success.   This particular type of false cypress tree is much heartier than other varieties of its species and is more prone to survive

Hinoki cypress bonsai
Hinoki cypress bonsai

The Hinoki cyprees has long been a favourite of mine for bonsai culture. C. Obtusa is the easiest false cypress to keep alive. My first introduction to bonsai was with this species. Because of this tree’s unique characteristics, it has taught me one of the hardest fundamentals to grasp in this passion; patience.

Plant Type:

 

Slender Hinoki cypress plants are classified as evergreen conifer trees.

 

Characteristics of Slender Hinoki Cypress:

 

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Gracilis’ trees are intermediate-sized or “semi-dwarf” Hinoki cypresses, being more compact (about 15 feet tall at maturity, and about 5 feet wide) than the species trees (which reach more than 50 feet in height) but not as short as ‘Nana Gracilis,’ the full dwarf (9 feet tall at maturity).

Trees Features:

The broad, sweeping, form of this conical-shaped evergreen has graceful, flattened, fern-like branches that droop gently at its branch tips. It showcases dark green foliage, and attractive, shredding, reddish-brown bark that peels off in long narrow strips developing a striking texture with age. Hinoki cypress foliage turns reddish in the winter

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Fake Bonsai Trees

How to make Fake Bonsai Trees

 

Fake Bonsai Trees

The majority of fake bonsai trees is small enough for display on a table, desk, shelf or bookcase. Our fake indoor Bonsai trees range from 8.5 inches to six feet tall, however, there are more options from which to choose if you prefer a larger display. Perhaps you’d like to add a large fake bonsai tree to the front hall? It’s the perfect way to set a calm tone in your home the moment you walk through the door. You’ll find countless places to use the smaller Bonsai versions, too. Look around for small spaces that need filling.

The art of bonsai was can be traced all the way back to ancient China, but the practice was adapted and made famous by the Japanese. Did you know that bonsai trees are not actually mini trees? They grow from the same seeds as full-size trees, but are cultivated to stay small, and grow within the confines of a planter. Bonsai is a novelty in the western world, which is one of the reasons they are such popular decor.

 

Bonsai is a tree that is old, but it cannot grow tall so very unique and expensive. Nevertheless, with our creativity, we can create fake bonsai inside of fast- and cheap.

For materials create fake bonsai : large tree branches, ironing board, dry leaves, sand, rocks, and paint finishing.

Tools : saws, cutters, sandpaper, brushes, glue and trowel.

Fake Bonsai Trees

How to make?

  1. prepare the necessary tools and materials, then, make the design of a bonsai tree branch with harness
  2. sawing tree branches with caution in order to become a branch structure that arrangement beautiful and natural. After that, do the sanding surface of the trunk / branches of trees
  3. create bonsai tools with attaching a board with 15×15 cm with a way glued / nailed at the base of the stem / branch
  4. The planting bonsai in a pot with the provision of sand and cement mortar and small rocks
  5. The installation of a natural leaf which has been preserved with glue on the position that the beautiful and natural
  6. The surface paint sticks / twigs evenly.

 

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Bonsai tree soil

“What Is Bonsai tree Soil?

 

Bonsai tree soil

Bonsai tree soil is a mixture of organic and inorganic compounds that provide a

suitable growing media for the cultivation of bonsai trees within the confines

of a bonsai container. A bonsai container or pot is an unnatural and

restrictive environment that, consequentially, requires a very well draining soil

mix to maintain a healthy bonsai tree. Bonsai soils that work well in a specific

set of environmental conditions, may or may not, work well in the specific

microenvironment of your backyard. So, it is recommended that you speak

with your bonsai supplier or another local bonsai enthusiast that has

experience growing bonsai in your locale.

Another important element of bonsai care is to choose the right soil. In nature, trees can grow large because the roots can grow optimally and penetrate into the soil.

Bonsai tree soil

Instead, bonsai growing in pots so that space for the roots would be limited. Limited root growth makes the tree can not grow big.

 

In order for bonsai growing well, required a special soil mix that is different from your normal ground to plant more trees.

 

 

 

Special soil for bonsai is a mixture of clay, sand, and organic matter, such as compost.

 

Finished with land disputes, next, when the bonsai should be watered?

 

The answer depends on the type of bonsai, climatic conditions (wet or dry), aged bonsai, and several other variables.

 

Ideally, bonsai should be watered in moderation, not too much nor too little.

 

Be sure to flush the water is at room temperature, the water is too cold or heat can damage the bonsai.

 

If you want to flush using tap water, let the water settle overnight to precipitate the chlorine and other chemicals.

 

When flush, flush bonsai with a little water. Once the soil becomes wet, flush again with more water.

 

Watering is best done every day in the morning, before the start bonsai photosynthesis cycle daily.

 

For fertilizer, use a fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium with a balanced composition.

 

Do not fertilize when dry bonsai, so be sure to water it first. Do not fertilize bonsai when exposed to the disease. Fertilizer is not a drug.

 

Although it takes patience, care of bonsai is not difficult. As long as their basic needs are met, you will get an exotic bonsai

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Azalea bonsai pruning

Guide to Azalea bonsai prunning

 

The azalea is one of the very few tree species that are basally-dominant. This means that the lower branches grow stronger than the weaker top, which leads to the shape of a shrub in nature. Therefore, prune the branches at the base harder than the top. The Azalea withstands strong pruning very well and even produces new shoots from branches on which no leaves are left. Immediately after flowering the wilted flowers and ovaries are cut off or pinched by hand. This point of time is also favourable for all other pruning and trimming works because in summer the new flower buds for the next year will develop. If you prune your tree too late there will be no or nearly no flowers in the following year.

Azalea bonsai pruning
Azalea bonsai pruning

Unwanted shoots from the trunk or the base of the branches can be removed at any time of the year.

Extensive styling works on the raw material are often done in spring and, in that case, flowering is omitted consciously.

The wood of the azalea is brittle so that wiring and bending should be done with great care.

Once trained to a specific bonsai shape, azaleas require only maintenance pruning and trimming. Remove spent flowers as soon as they wilt and any new shoots that develop after blooming ends. Pruning secondary shoots until late July helps the bonsai hold its shape. In the fall, you can trim out the inner leaves to improve the next season’s flowering.

Azalea bonsai pruning
Azalea bonsai pruning

Azalea pruning is no big deal, normally the dead blossoms are pinched rather than cut, though. This is known as ‘deadheading’ and encourages bud-set for the future. A few seasons of this can lead to a plant/tree producing such a profusion of flowers that there is almost no foliage to be seen during blooming.

During pruning it’s best to clean out the smaller interior and crossing branches at that time, allowing more light in. The best way is to cut back a little further than you would think because it will force budding and breaks at the branch apex thus, more foliage.

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